How To Transition To Natural Hair

big chop and four year natural hair comparison

Alicia James’  EASY STEPS TO BECOMING AN EXPERT ON YOUR NATURAL HAIR

Step 1 –THE DECISION!

Why did you want to go natural? You’ll need to remember this, for those times you get frustrated with the process

Step 2 – TO CUT OR NOT TO CUT

Big Chop or Transition

Transitioners – Don’t panic when you notice a little more shedding than usual. It’s normal during transition, the point where the natural and relaxed hair meet is very fragile. I suggest utilizing low manipulation and no –heat protective styling. A few of my favorite styles: twist outs, braid outs, bantu knot outs, pin curls, rods, rollers, etc. are all great no heat styles. Remember, there is no rush to start cutting, and big chopping is not a requirement.

The Big Chop – Many naturals do their own big chop. You can section off your hair into small ponytails, and then clip where the natural and relaxed hair meet.  Make sure to cut your hair with hair cutting scissors. You can find these at any beauty supply store. Cutting with dull scissors can damage your ends and set you back before you even get started. If you are not comfortable with cutting your hair own hair, do your research and find a trusted professional hair stylist.

You have committed to the process. There is no going back at this point. You have a new look, and I am sure it comes with a new attitude. At this point the hair may be really short, and it is not much to style. Most naturals stick with the simple wash and gos. Brighten up your twa with accessories. Find some statement earrings and dress your hair up with cute hair accessories. Experiment with headbands, flowers, bows, decorative hair pins and clips. Add color and life to your wardrobe. You may have moments of regret, but remember why you made the decision. Also, look forward and imagine your healthy hair. The key to a successful hair journey is patience and love.

Step 3 – SHOP and Experiment!

The fun part – Try out products, experiment, find what your hair responds well too. – Shampoo, conditioner, leave in, oils, etc.

During this time it’s okay to be a product junkie. Once you find what you like…stick to it. I used the same products for nearly three years!

Step 4 – BUCKLE YOUR SEAT BELT!

Get ready for the ride. There will be a rollercoaster of ups and downs with your hair. You’ll have to adjust to the new you. You’ll have to adjust to new styling and combing techniques. Don’t feel discourage when your curls don’t bounce like the next girls! Our hair is so different and there are so many beautiful unique textures. Sometimes you’ll hate it and sometimes you’ll love. During these moments go back to step 1.

Step 5 – WHAT’S YOUR PLAN?

I always say to develop a hair regimen or a routine. This will keep you disciplined, and also get you used to dealing with your hair regularly. Your regimen should include washing and cleansing the hair, conditioning/deep conditioning, styling, trimming when necessary. I do all of these things at least weekly.

Be gentle with the hair…retire small combs for wide tooth or try finger detangling.  I use a comb, but I go for finger detangling most of the time. It takes getting used to though.

STEP 6 – LET IT GROW!!!

Set proper expectations, most people grow on average ½ an inch per month, which is 6 inches per year. Most only retain 3-4 inches of that a year.  Try not to become frustrated when your growth seems to be below average. It doesn’t mean you are doing something wrong.

STEP 7 – ROLL WITH THE PUNCHES

I always say, find that what works for your hair, listen to it. When hair is literally falling out of your growth slows, it’s telling you something is not working. Don’t be afraid to switch it up. You’ll know when you are having success.

Don’t become overwhelmed with all of the extra info out there.

Keep it simple and keep it fun!

If you would like to discuss this more in detail or if you have any other questions regarding natural hair. Click The link below! I look forward to speaking with you! Google Helpout - Natural Hair ————————————————————————-

EasyNaturalHair.com
“easy natural hair”

Click MsAliciaJames.com For More “Natural Hair” videos!

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108 thoughts on “How To Transition To Natural Hair

  1. Alicia, I have been following you since May. I hadn’t had a relaxer in 6 years, than decided to get a Brazillian blow out by Chi. I hated my decision, but my hair was breaking really bad, so I decided to transition for 4 months than BC in Sept 2012. My hair is growing, mainly because I do nothing to it besides keeping it braided & moisturized. i just want to say I appreciate all your videos, I appreciate you doing these videos, I appreciate you using your personal time to share…to share your experience, your products and your journey.

  2. At one point I tried to follow the same routine with my hair and my daughters, but her hair texture is completely different from mine. Her hair just responds differently to certain things, so it doesn’t work. If your daughter’s hair is similar to your hair…it definitely would not hurt to try your methods with her. It will make things a lot easier. 🙂

  3. Thank you very much! I am so happy the videos and info help!
    Good luck on your journey and also starting over. You have the tools just continue to utilize them, and you will do great! 🙂

  4. Hello, I have been natural for 7 years, but going to hairdresser bi-weekly for press and curl. At end of 2012 I just discovered your website and reading and learning how to really care for my natural hair. I do believe I have heat damage on my hair because I can see where th hair coils up at the roots. My question, did you have a shaping cut to you hair? I see or read about the deva cut and love the shape on those I see. Would you suggest a nice cut to get rid of the heat damage while I start my journey?

  5. I’ve heard of the deva cut. I’ve seen several ladies with the cut it is absolutely beautiful. My hair has never been cut in a style. Since my big chop, it is just how my hair grow. It’s funny I get the question all of the time, but my hair naturally grows in layers. It looks cute now, but in the beginning it was horrible. 🙂
    If you want to get rid of the straightened ends, I definitely think a nice curly girl cut would make you feel better. Make sure you check out the stylist and do your research! Let me know what you decide to do! 🙂

  6. Hi Alicia, i just combed out my locs out because i just wanted a change especially after just having a beautiful baby girl. I realised that the back of my hair has some length but my hairline is really thin and the front of my hair is much shorter that the middle and the back…after finding you on you tube i decided i will stay natural but i’m not sure what to do with the front in its current state as it is really really short…my hairline needs major repair…any suggestions?

  7. The thinning of the hair line more than likely has come from wearing the locs for a long period of time. Sometimes locs, braids, etc. can put some stress on the hair line. Hopefully you will see some improvement over time. Try styles that don’t require you pulling or slicking the hair back tightly. Also, I massage my edges with an essential oil. These are just a few suggestions based on my personal experience. 🙂

  8. I do massage the oil on to my scalp. Now, if the oil is being pre heated, I would be careful with placing it directly on the scalp, the oil will burn. I usually focus application on the ends and then massage down to the scalp. 🙂

  9. I am younger than your average viewer and i wanted to know if my mum would let me transition and did u chop or transition and thanx for all the advice im grateful for all the vids u have made and blogs thanx

  10. Hi. I have a question about dying hair. I was told if I plan on dying my hair to do a dark color so I did, I dyed it jet black. And now I’m scared that my hair won’t grow at all and it feels dry. What should I do ?

  11. I wish I could give you information on dyeing the hair, but I have not dyed my hair since being natural. The one time I have dyed my hair, I was in high school, and I added reddish brown streaks, it was horrible! LOL!
    Here are some great articles from Curly Nikki and NaturallyCurly.com that may give you some good info on how to care for your hair, now that you have added color! Hope it helps!
    http://www.curlynikki.com/2009/09/dyeing-natural-hair.html
    http://www.naturallycurly.com/curlreading/kinky-hair-type-4a/coloring-type-4-hair

  12. I love your blogs! I just big chopped, ending up with three inches of hair. Would you recommend wearing a wig as a protective style? I am afraid my hair will get out of control or get too dry after wash n gos. Your thoughts?

  13. Hi! i’m doing my transition now and so far it’s really hard but this is something i really want to do so i don’t mind going through it. i’m so HAPPY I FOUND YOU i’ve seen all you done to go natural but one thing i didn’t see was the moisturize so my question is what kind of Moisturize do you use for your hair? your website is the best and going to be the best thing that ever happen to me. i normally have long hair but going through the Transition my hair is getting shorter and shorter but i’m not worried because your website gave me hope. Thank You so much for doing this i really appreciate it. i’ll keep you up on my hair hopefully it all works out for me again thank you

  14. Wigs are a great option to give yourself time to adjust. I wore weaves for several months after my big chop! 🙂
    Make sure you still care for your natural hair, cleaning it, moisturizing it, etc. 🙂

    Thanks for stopping by! 🙂

  15. Are you familiar with Tahlid Wajid Black Earth Products? Would you recommend them? Also being natural would you recommend going to Dominican salons to get a blow out? Or is that too much heat for natural hair?

  16. Hi! Thank you so much! The transition can be difficult, because the hair changes so much. The methods that you used before no longer work, it can become time consuming and even frustrating.
    It is all worth it though.

    My moisture routine is below for you! Good luck on your journey!

    Moisture During The Week:

    There was a time, where I was all for spritzing the hair every night with water. Now, those days are gone. If I want to maintain a style for more than one day. I minimize the amount of times I add water to my hair. I think I only stuck to that, because it was the thing that “naturals” was supposed to do. Now, I usually spritz the ends lightly with water every time I refresh my braid out or twist out. That is usually every 3-4 days. First, I apply a small amount of extra virgin olive oil, then I add a small amount of water to the ends of my hair and massage up. Then, I twist or braid the section, and take down the next morning. I make sure to not add to much water. I don’t want the hair to revert or tangle. The goal is to make it through two weeks without having to comb or do any excessive styling. Low manipulation is key for me!

  17. I apologize, I am not familiar with the products. Personally I would not go, because from research and hearing most stories their use of heat is a bit excessive. I am a natural who uses heat, but I prefer to do it myself, because no one knows my hair better than me. I control the temperature, how often, and the care of my hair before and after. Anytime you have someone styling your hair who doesn’t know anything about your routine or how your hair responds you have to be careful. 🙂

  18. This is a question, Im trying to grow my hair out. I have noticed that it seems to grows really fast when people go natural (from what I have observed from some people I know). Would you suggest going natural if your only goal is to grow your hair out? (If I go natural, it will be to grow my hair longer and then go back to relaxers)

  19. I have had great results with going natural, but that is not the story for everyone.
    Have you thought about jus transitioning to texturizing and stretching your relaxers? I have seen many relaxed/texturized women grow their hair long with this routine.
    Just suggesting this, because your ultimate goal is to have long relaxed hair.

    🙂

  20. Actually, Im not too familiar with ‘texturized’ hair, but I have decided to stretch relaxers. (which is hard, b/c I dont really get them often)

    What are the steps for that process and how can I learn more about it?

  21. to theclbray

    Before I transitioned to being fully natural, I was able to grow my relaxed hair long to APL (within 2 years, APL is long to me, don’t know what your goal is) using basically the same technique that naturals used,which are: wearing protective styles or low manipulation styles, moisturizing my hair 2-3 times a week, and as Alicia stated, stretching my relaxers anywhere between 10-12 weeks, also finding out what products work well for you and maintaining a good moisture/protein balance. That’s what worked for me, I only stopped relaxing simply because I didn’t want to put chemicals in my hair anymore. I personally would not recommend going natural if you are going to go back to relaxing; because the hair goes through alot when you are dealing with those two different textures (speaking from personal experience, I transitioned for a year and 1 month before chopping off my relaxed ends. Good luck and I hope that this info helps you out.

  22. to theclbray

    I almost forget, for stretching your relaxers start with going a week or 2 past your retouch time for a time period that you feel comfortable with and are still able to manage your hair well. I use to retouch my 4A/B hair every 4 weeks (I know the damage, but I did it and it still looked healthy at that), then I went to every 6 weeks for a set period of time, once I became comfortable with that, then I moved up to 8 weeks between every relaxer and I was able to finally get up to every 10-12 weeks between relaxers until I finally just decided to go natural. My other problem also was relaxing my hair “BONE STRAIT” with a kinky, coily 4A/B ‘new growth’ texture; I also started to ask my stylist to quit relaxing my hair SOOO straight and shortening my relaxing times (such as if she typically took 10-15 mins to breakdown my new growth when relaxing , then I would have her decrease the time by 5 minutes, so that there wasn’t so much of an extreme between the textures when the new growth would grow out (hope am saying this in a way that is understandable). Again, good luck!!

  23. Thank you so much, this definitely helps. I actually decided what I would do. Because I am a dancer (ballet/jazz five days a week) so my hair gets messed up if straightened from dance, I will not straighten it anymore. I am going to keep it moisturized with castor oil , veggie oil, and conditioner all day – everyday. And Ill keep my relaxers spread out 12 weeks (thats what Ive practically always done, just because my hair doesnt require tons of relaxing) but if I decide to flat iron, I will co-wash and blow dry before. And be sure to use a protectant.

  24. hello i just discover your page and id like to know if its a good idea to bread my hair for a month when transitioning

  25. Hi, am a new transitioner and I have tons of questions. My hair is about a month and one week post relaxed I decided to go natural because I just don’t like the relaxed look anymore and my hair is not growing it looks thin and has no life. So I am 1 month post relaxed I have a about 1/2 inch of new growth but I am not ready to do the BC so I was wondering from this point on what do I need to start doing to jump start my journey. I have a jet black rinse in my hair also will that hurt he process. Also my hair is thin but can grow but not to the point that I can be satisfied with.

  26. Hi, I’ve been transitioning for about 3-4 months now. I recently just tried my first sew-in, when I took it out i noticed that my hair was shorter than before.What should I do? I’m thinking about just going ahead and cutting my hair.

  27. @Y’mani; IMO it depends on what you want to do. If you are not ready to do the big chop, I would recommend that you have your hair trimmed and do a ‘heavy protein treatment. In my experience most of the people that I have encountered who have had similar situations this is what worked for them. If you are not concerned about keeping your ‘relaxed’ ends, then a would say cut off the damage and you should be good to go, but I would still recommend a protein (light protein) just to help your hair recover from the shock of the sew-in. Heavy proteins that I would recommend are Organic Root stimulator hair mayonnaise, Aphogee two-step protein treatment, Kerafuse by Mizani or Affirm 5-in-1 reconstructor (my favorite, worked great on my hair when I experienced hair breakage due to a poorly executed highlight—not by me but a professional); all of these can be purchased at your local beauty supply store; Kerafuse and Affirm are more high end and may have to be ordered off line. Remember that with protein treatments, that they have to be followed up with a moisturizing conditioner. In order to have healthy hair and retain length, you have to ensure that have a good protein-moisture balance. Hope this helps and good luck

  28. When going through the process of being natural is it okay to perm my edges? Or what products or procedures are good to keep my edges tamed? Because my edges and kitchen are very nappy without an perm.

  29. HairCrush from Youtube relaxed her edges during her transition. You may be able to get some details from her.
    I am not sure how that works. I just grab a little gel and then tie them down with a satin scarf for a few minutes, and they usually hold up. 🙂

  30. hey Ms. Alicia i’m 17 years old and going natural by transitioning with box braids because i’m tried of perming my hair and i love the natural look and i want my hair to grow healthy. i haven’t permed my hair since November and have been getting box braids ever since. i just found out about your website i find it very helpful and i have been watching your youtube vids for the past month thanks for sharing your natural hair wisdom 😀 . i wanted to know how do you know when the perm has wore out. my hair right now isn’t straight and sort of feels the same as the new growth do you think the perm has wore out. i want to do the twist out and Bantu methods on my hair but i don’t have the curly products yet what could i use as a substitute. and i also wanted to know how do you know what your curl pattern is and how do you know when the natural and permed hair meet

  31. Hello Ms. Alicia!!!!!!!!!1 Thank you soooooo sooooo much for your Video!!!!!!!!!11 I just began my Hair Growth Journey, presently 2-3 Inches now.. I would like to know how long I should keep my Twist-Outs? and also my edges are thinning and I know it is due to my constant brushing, but I dont know another way to keep it laying flat! it looks so bushy without brushing…what should I do? Thanks!!!!

  32. I would recommend taking a hair butter or hair gel of your choice, rub the product into your hairline in the direction that you would like your hair to lay with your hands if you no longer want to use a hairbrush and then tie down your edges with a satin or silk scarf for a minimum of 30 minutes or overnight. If this doesn’t work for you, try using a toothbrush to help laid down your edges and if your current hairbrush is not a 100% natural boar brush, then consider purchasing one. I would also recommend rubbing castor oil onto the thinned areas of hair about 2-3 times a week; castor oil is very thick & I personally mixed my with olive oil a 50/50 mixture in a small squeeze bottle with an applicator tip, A LIITLE GOES A LONG WAY, so be careful when applying. Castor oil is touted for thickening and softening hair. Hope this helps and good luck on your hair journey! ☺

  33. My natural hair lacks shine and its dry, so can you tell me how to combat this? Did you write a book about natural hair, if so where can I purchase it?

    Thanks

  34. Hi, I have been natural for about 8 years BUT I continued to flat iron my hair. A few months ago I put a weave in my hair because it started to shed and break. I think i am ready to take the plunge and go totally natural. My question to you is because I have straightened my hair for so many years (relaxer, flat iron), I no longer have a curl pattern around the edges. Do you have any recommendations as I make this transition?

  35. Hi! I’ve been trying to grow out my hair forever, but it keeps on breaking. I recently trimmed about half an inch off it and the breaking reduced, but it’s still there. Every time i loosen my hair and run my hand through it, hair comes off! Also, my hairline has been thinning from braiding and relaxing before i went natural. Any tips?

  36. Zainab,

    It sounds as if your hair is very weak and damaged and more than likely you are in need of a protein treatment, I personally like the Affirm 5-in-1 reconstructor and Aphoghee 2-step treatment. Both of these are really heavy/hard proteins, so you will definitely need to ensure that you follow up with a deep moisturizing conditioner as both of these proteins will make you hair ‘hard’ after application. The Aphoghee is very runny and the smell is not the best, but it is easily assessible and you can find it in almost any beauty supply. The Affirm 5-in-1 reconstructor has a more pleasant scent and a creamy consistency, but can be difficult to find, I order mine on the Internet through Amazon because I get more for my money. You will notice an ‘immediate’ difference in your hair with just one application of either one of these products, no lie. I prefer the 5-in-1 because of the smell and the consistency (I’m big on the scent of products). I would also recommend that you put your hair into some sort of low manipulation style (rollerset, buns, etc. based on the length of your hair), so that you don’t have to deal with it so much. Deep moisturizing conditioners that I like are Carol’s Daughter’s Olive Oil Infusion (some ppl state that her line is pricey, but I love a majority of her products) and Cantu Shea Butter leave-in conditioning repair cream; I personally use it as a deep conditioner, mixing honey and extra virgin olive oil in with it—don’t care for it as a leave-in because it leaves a residue on my hair. As far as your thinning hairline, I would recommend, applying castor oil to your hairline daily, castor oil has a very thick consistency, so if you don’t like the consistency, then I would thin it out with extra virgin olive oil, also ORS (Organic Root Stimulator) fertilizing temple balm worked well for my edges when I was relaxed. You also should seek out hairstyles that don’t pull or put tension on your hairline. I know that it can be frustrating, but continue to listen to your hair, do your research and you’re be OK, hope that this helps.

  37. I really want my hair to grow. I have been softening my hair and it’s started to break. I have no idea where to start with my hair. After I stopped softening my hair the texture of my hair has turned kind of afro. My hair has continued to break and I have changed my shampoo and conditioner and my hair just seems to be breaking more. Do you have any products I could start with that you used? I know all hair is different but there is so much on the market I’m not sure were to start. I am also young (12 years) and I feel way to young of this to be happening. I would really appreciate it.
    From Deborah

  38. lovebug2001

    What do you mean by ‘softening’ are you talking about how you moisturize your hair? I’ve never heard of this and would need you to explain this to me in more detail, is the softening done when you are deep conditioning or moisturizing your hair and how often are you doing your conditioning and moisturizing? Breaking hair is usually either due to ‘too much moisture’ or ‘too much protein’ and NOT from the shampoo or conditioner that you are using…

  39. Greetings,
    I’ve been transitioning ( The Long Grow Out -Straight) for about 2 months now and I feel over whelmed. My hair is drawing up, breaking/shedding, becoming harder to style. My scalp itches.. I believe my scalp itches the most where the relaxer has burned my scalp. My roots are spoongy tho. Not as stiff as the rest of my hair. I noticed it’s not as easy trying to wrap my hair in it’s current state.
    I’m currently using Wen by Chaz Dean and recently tried Carol’s Daughter’s transitioning 1-2-3- kit.
    As a child my hair was very dry, coarse, brittle and lacked motisture. My hair was extremely hard to maintain and seemd to drink moisture. I received a relaxer at the age of 9yrs old. What makes me think I can transition now? I’ve been getting a relaxer every 4-6 weeks for 25yrs. My hair is NAPPY without that Crack!! I’ve researched and researched and it seems the key to maintaining Natural hair is to Condition, Moisture, Seal & Trim. I’m in the process of getting to know my hair and finding the right products to work with my hair texture. My next step is to start experimenting with protective styles. You’ll have given me a boost to keep going. I’m aware it’s not going to be an easy journey. I believe if my parents had the proper hair care knowledge I would’ve never received a relaxer as a child.

  40. Umm hi Alicia my name is,Samaria and I am currently 15 years old now,I started going natural since the 8th grade and I have been using yarn twist as my protective styles and they make my hair grow but idont kno how to get it soft and easier to tame without waking up in the morning with it madded and,dried,out and that’s a another I do ‘ve my hair dries up so quickly and I get so fustrated I spray hair on it and,dries very,quickly so am I doing something wrong please tell what should I do because iwant to give up so bad and go back to a perm but I have came to far it just Ughh so please give me,some sort of advice Please!!!!

  41. Hello Alicia, my name is Taneha. I’m 14 yrs. old and I have never had a perm. I used to always get braids and beads in my hair, but since I started high school this year I decided I was too old for that. I play many sports, so as you can imagine flat ironing my hair doesn’t last and I don’t have time to always re-do it, plus it’s not healthy for my hair. At the start of the year I was using tips I got from other naturals on instagram, youtube, etc., but I realized or I felt that my hair was coming out rather than growing. I was washing my hair bi-weekly, but conditioning every week. I used heat once in October for homecoming, but that was it. I did a few twist outs and sometimes would just wear my hair in two braids. I was wondering if you could recommend some products I could use and some things i could do to strengthen my hair and make it grow rather than fall out? Please let me know. Thanks!

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  43. hi my name is Judy i got a perm on right now but im trying to be natural what do i need to start putting on my hair now to the process?

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  45. Hi
    I tried transitiong for a month but my hair kept falling off so i decided to have a BC. The only problem is when i wash my hair, my hair falls off. i wash my hair everyday but only with conditioner and i deep condition once a week. use a leave in conditioner after every wash and moisture with extra virgin olive oil, coconut oil, Castor oil and grape seed oil. At night i apply onion juice and wrap my hair with a plastic cap before I go to bed. the only problem is I still have a little bit of relaxed hair. Could that be the reason why my hair is falling off? Can you please tell me what am doing wrong and things I could do to make my hair grow without falling out. Many thanks.

  46. I started my natural hair journey january and i want to cut this week and dye.pls,i will like to know if its advisable to dye my hair myself at home before going to the salon to cut or cut and then dye.thanks

  47. I want to transition but I feel like I will look awkward with my hair in protective styles if I don’t do the big chop and the kids at my school will make fun of me if I do big chop. I don’t know what to do.

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  54. I’m almost done of transitioning my hair from perm to natural hair. Is my hair going to grow faster and longer.Or just going to grow slower and hair is going to be strong?

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